Weight-loss drugs shift apparel spend from plus-size to mid-market
The rapid uptake of GLP-1 drugs is reshaping the apparel sector, driving a projected 1% market boost that favors mid-market retailers while devastating plus-size brands.
Nearly 3 million adults in the UK are now taking GLP-1 weight-loss drugs, a figure expected to reach 7 million by late next year. This acceleration is creating a distinct consumer class that spends heavily on new wardrobes, fundamentally altering the revenue mix for clothing retailers. Consultancy PwC notes that 42% of UK users are spending more on clothes, particularly activewear and occasion wear.
Mid-market chains see sales shift
The beneficiaries of this spending surge are primarily mid-market retailers. Berenberg analysts estimate the trend will provide a 1% boost to the overall UK clothing market in each of the next three years. Brands like M&S, Next and Zara are capturing the bulk of this demand because they appeal to the older, more affluent demographics driving the uptake. At M&S, 65% of womenswear jeans sales now come from smaller sizes 6 to 12, up from a historical norm of 40%.
Plus-size sector faces structural decline
Conversely, retailers catering to larger sizes are suffering sharp reversals. Next’s chief executive Simon Wolfson has noted a decline in very large size sales. The impact is even more severe for specialist plus-size brands. London-based BeigePlus has seen sales fall 20% over the past two years. "The impact has been nothing short of catastrophic," says Hennie Fearnley, the company's chief executive.
Cheaper pills to accelerate the trend
The pipeline of new medications ensures this retail shift will not be temporary. The arrival this week of pill versions of GLP-1s in UK pharmacies removes a major barrier to adoption. PwC research found 83% of potential users would be more likely to take the drugs if available as a pill. The Wegovy tablet and Eli Lilly’s rival Foundayo pill are both cheaper than injected alternatives, expanding the market to users previously uncomfortable with needles.
Usage currently peaks at 13% among 25- to 44-year-olds, with women making up 60% of the user base. As this cohort sheds weight—Wegovy trials showed an average loss of 21kg over 72 weeks—the resulting size changes translate directly to retail volume. Former M&S commercial director Stephen Fitzgerald notes that a 5kg weight loss equates to a full dress size.
"There are predictions that 10-15% of the UK population could be taking these drugs by 2030," Fitzgerald says. "The effect on apparel retailers should be significant." Beyond clothing, the same demographic is increasing spend on skincare, hair products and health gadgets, proving PwC's assertion that "GLP-1s are doing far more than reducing appetite. They are creating a new consumer."
